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What does Gem smell like?

Gem is a dense, multi-layered "spicy floral" that serves as a time capsule for the late 1980s. The opening is a rich, syrupy fusion of plum and peach, balanced by the aromatic sharpness of cypress and rosewood. Rather than being a simple fruity scent, the spices—specifically coriander and cardamom—provide a dry, textured heat that prevents the fruit notes from becoming overly sweet. As the fragrance settles, it reveals a massive floral heart dominated by carnation and clove, giving it a distinct "vintage" bite. The powdery texture of iris and orris root softens the headstrong tuberose and ylang-ylang, creating a feel of velvet and gold jewelry. The dry down is a classic chypre-oriental hybrid; it leans heavily into oakmoss, earthy vetiver, and a warm, animalic civet base that hums under smooth vanilla and amber. Wearing it feels substantial and formal, like a heavy silk garment.

Details

House: Van Cleef & Arpels
Concentration: Eau De Toilette
Gender: feminine
Year: 1987
Longevity: 8.5 / 10 · 89 Parfumo ratings
Sillage: 7.8 / 10 · 79 Parfumo ratings
Season votes on Parfumo: Fall (48 votes), Winter (44 votes)
Occasion votes on Parfumo: Evening (46 votes), Night Out (43 votes)
Scent Profile: Spicy, Floral, Oriental, Chypre, Powdery
Perfumer: Roger Pellégrino

Historical community ratings and votes imported from Parfumo. Values may have changed since import; the observation date is unavailable. Ratings reflect community opinions, not measured wear tests. Categories show up to two leading vote counts; votes are category selections and may overlap.

Community Insights

The consensus on performance is overwhelmingly positive, with many noting that it behaves more like a high-concentration extrait than an Eau de Toilette, offering exceptional longevity and a presence that fills a room.
It is frequently categorized as a "powerhouse" fragrance, often compared to other bold 1980s icons that rely on the interplay of fruit, heavy spice, and animalic bases.
Enthusiasts view this as a primary choice for colder weather, specifically for formal evening events or nights out where a more "mature" and "elegant" profile is desired.
Value is considered high for those who can find it, as its potent nature means a single bottle lasts a significant amount of time due to the minimal number of sprays required.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does this fragrance perform compared to modern Eau de Toilettes?+

Unlike many modern compositions that are described as lacking staying power, Gem is known for its remarkable longevity and strong projection. It often outperforms contemporary Eau de Parfums, remaining detectable on the skin and clothing for many hours.

Is this suitable for everyday wear or the office?+

Given its spicy-floral intensity and animalic base notes, it is generally considered more suitable for evening wear, formal occasions, or leisure during autumn and winter. It may be perceived as too heavy for a traditional business environment.

Has the fragrance been discontinued?+

Yes, Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels has been discontinued for a number of years, making it a sought-after item for vintage collectors.

Which notes are the most prominent in the dry down?+

The final hours of the fragrance are defined by a classic chypre finish of oakmoss and vetiver, combined with the warmth of amber and a noticeable animalic touch from the civet.

Appears in Collections

Date Night Fragrances1836 Evening Fragrances2333 Classic Perfumes944 Eau de Toilette Fragrances915 Feminine Fragrances2169 Fragrances Starting With G223

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What does Gem smell like?

Gem is a dense, multi-layered "spicy floral" that serves as a time capsule for the late 1980s. The opening is a rich, syrupy fusion of plum and peach, balanced by the aromatic sharpness of cypress and rosewood. Rather than being a simple fruity scent, the spices—specifically coriander and cardamom—provide a dry, textured heat that prevents the fruit notes from becoming overly sweet. As the fragrance settles, it reveals a massive floral heart dominated by carnation and clove, giving it a distinct "vintage" bite. The powdery texture of iris and orris root softens the headstrong tuberose and ylang-ylang, creating a feel of velvet and gold jewelry. The dry down is a classic chypre-oriental hybrid; it leans heavily into oakmoss, earthy vetiver, and a warm, animalic civet base that hums under smooth vanilla and amber. Wearing it feels substantial and formal, like a heavy silk garment.

Details

House: Van Cleef & Arpels
Concentration: Eau De Toilette
Gender: feminine
Year: 1987
Longevity: 8.5 / 10 · 89 Parfumo ratings
Sillage: 7.8 / 10 · 79 Parfumo ratings
Season votes on Parfumo: Fall (48 votes), Winter (44 votes)
Occasion votes on Parfumo: Evening (46 votes), Night Out (43 votes)
Scent Profile: Spicy, Floral, Oriental, Chypre, Powdery
Perfumer: Roger Pellégrino

Historical community ratings and votes imported from Parfumo. Values may have changed since import; the observation date is unavailable. Ratings reflect community opinions, not measured wear tests. Categories show up to two leading vote counts; votes are category selections and may overlap.

Community Insights

The consensus on performance is overwhelmingly positive, with many noting that it behaves more like a high-concentration extrait than an Eau de Toilette, offering exceptional longevity and a presence that fills a room.
It is frequently categorized as a "powerhouse" fragrance, often compared to other bold 1980s icons that rely on the interplay of fruit, heavy spice, and animalic bases.
Enthusiasts view this as a primary choice for colder weather, specifically for formal evening events or nights out where a more "mature" and "elegant" profile is desired.
Value is considered high for those who can find it, as its potent nature means a single bottle lasts a significant amount of time due to the minimal number of sprays required.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does this fragrance perform compared to modern Eau de Toilettes?+

Unlike many modern compositions that are described as lacking staying power, Gem is known for its remarkable longevity and strong projection. It often outperforms contemporary Eau de Parfums, remaining detectable on the skin and clothing for many hours.

Is this suitable for everyday wear or the office?+

Given its spicy-floral intensity and animalic base notes, it is generally considered more suitable for evening wear, formal occasions, or leisure during autumn and winter. It may be perceived as too heavy for a traditional business environment.

Has the fragrance been discontinued?+

Yes, Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels has been discontinued for a number of years, making it a sought-after item for vintage collectors.

Which notes are the most prominent in the dry down?+

The final hours of the fragrance are defined by a classic chypre finish of oakmoss and vetiver, combined with the warmth of amber and a noticeable animalic touch from the civet.

Does the peach and plum make this a sweet fragrance?+

While the fruit notes provide a jam-like richness in the opening, the scent is not "sweet" by modern gourmand standards. The heavy presence of clove, carnation, and oakmoss keeps the composition balanced, spicy, and sophisticated.

How gender-neutral is this fragrance, despite being marketed for women?+

While originally marketed to women, its bold spicy accords, woody rosewood, and earthy oakmoss base appeal to many fans of traditional masculine chypres or spice-heavy orientals.

Accords

Notes

TopCoriander//Cardamom//Myrtle//Plum//Cypress//Rosewood//Peach

HeartTuberose//Clove//Jasmine//Carnation//Orris root//Rose//Ylang-ylang//

BaseVetiver//Oakmoss//Amber//Civet//Patchouli//Vanilla

Iris

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Appears in Collections

Date Night Fragrances1836 Evening Fragrances2333 Classic Perfumes944 Eau de Toilette Fragrances915 Feminine Fragrances2169 Fragrances Starting With G223

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Van Cleef & Arpels

First

Eau De Toilette

Van Cleef & Arpels

Pour Homme

Eau De Toilette

Van Cleef & Arpels

Orchid Leather

Van Cleef & Arpels

Orchidée Vanille

Eau De Parfum

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Rose Velours

Van Cleef & Arpels

Lys Carmin

Van Cleef & Arpels

Oriens

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Precious Oud

Where to buy Gem

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We don't track a retailer offer for this fragrance yet — check the Amazon link below for current availability.

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Fragrance Fragrance is an independent price-comparison service, not a retailer or marketplace. We do not sell, stock, ship, or accept payment for products. Purchases are completed on third-party retailer sites. We are not affiliated with or endorsed by fragrance brands. How buying works.

Prices are collected from third-party retailers and updated periodically. Always verify the price on the retailer's site before purchasing. We may earn a commission on purchases made through our links.