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What does Tubéreuse criminelle smell like?

Wearing Tubéreuse Criminelle is an exercise in tension and eventual reward. It is famous for an opening that many describe as a "cold, medicinal ice queen." Upon first application, the fragrance hits with a sharp, mentholated blast that mimics the scent of wintergreen or gasoline. This jarring, icy start is fueled by heavy doses of clove and nutmeg, creating a rubbery, industrial edge that feels intentionally provocative. It is a bracing experience that challenges the wearer's perception of what a floral perfume should be. As the "criminal" top notes begin to recede, the fragrance undergoes a dramatic transformation into a lush, creamy floral heart. The aggressive spices soften into a backdrop for a velvety tuberose, supported by the green crispness of hyacinth and the honeyed sweetness of orange blossom. Jasmine adds a classic floral depth, while the base of styrax, musk, and vanilla provides a resinous, warm foundation. By the time it fully dries down, the initial medicinal chill has evolved into a substantial, animalic floral that feels sophisticated and slightly dark.

Details

House: Serge Lutens
Gender: unisex
Year: 1998
Longevity: 8.4 / 10 · 200 Parfumo ratings
Sillage: 7.7 / 10 · 186 Parfumo ratings
Season votes on Parfumo: Fall (89 votes), Winter (86 votes)
Occasion votes on Parfumo: Evening (92 votes), Night Out (81 votes)
Scent Profile: Spicy, Floral, Resinous, Oriental, Animal
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake, Serge Lutens

Historical community ratings and votes imported from Parfumo. Values may have changed since import; the observation date is unavailable. Ratings reflect community opinions, not measured wear tests. Categories show up to two leading vote counts; votes are category selections and may overlap.

Community Insights

RedditFragrantica

The fragrance is widely regarded as a polarizing masterpiece, famous for a difficult opening that enthusiasts compare to "mothballs on ice" or "VapoRub" before it transitions into a beautiful floral.
Performance is consistently rated as high, with notable longevity and a sillage that is substantial and hearty without being overwhelming.
It is frequently compared to Robert Piguet’s Fracas; however, where Fracas is seen as sunny and classically feminine, Tubéreuse Criminelle is viewed as its dangerous, "vampish" counterpart.
Recommended primarily for cooler weather, particularly fall and winter evenings, as the cold air highlights the contrast between the icy spices and the warm floral core.
Enthusiasts often describe this as a "must-smell" for those exploring niche perfumery, though it is rarely recommended as a blind purchase due to its challenging nature.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the medicinal opening last for the duration of the wear?+

No. The sharp, mentholated phase generally lasts between 30 to 90 minutes. After this period, the fragrance settles into a much smoother, creamier floral dominated by tuberose and jasmine.

Is this fragrance suitable for office wear?+

Generally, no. Given its aggressive opening and dramatic, animalic character, it is best suited for evening wear, nights out, or leisure time rather than a professional business environment.

How does this compare to other tuberose-heavy scents?+

Unlike "sunny" or "tropical" tuberose scents, this version is darker and more resinous. The inclusion of clove, nutmeg, and styrax gives it a spicy, oriental edge that makes it feel more mysterious and "noir" than a standard floral.

Is Tubéreuse Criminelle considered a masculine or feminine scent?+

While traditionally categorized for men and women, the community often views it as leaning feminine but with a "villainous" or "stoic" edge that makes it easily wearable for anyone who enjoys bold, spicy florals.

Appears in Collections

Date Night Fragrances1836 Evening Fragrances2333 Unisex Fragrances3693 90s Fragrances340 Fragrances Starting With T367

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What does Tubéreuse criminelle smell like?

Wearing Tubéreuse Criminelle is an exercise in tension and eventual reward. It is famous for an opening that many describe as a "cold, medicinal ice queen." Upon first application, the fragrance hits with a sharp, mentholated blast that mimics the scent of wintergreen or gasoline. This jarring, icy start is fueled by heavy doses of clove and nutmeg, creating a rubbery, industrial edge that feels intentionally provocative. It is a bracing experience that challenges the wearer's perception of what a floral perfume should be. As the "criminal" top notes begin to recede, the fragrance undergoes a dramatic transformation into a lush, creamy floral heart. The aggressive spices soften into a backdrop for a velvety tuberose, supported by the green crispness of hyacinth and the honeyed sweetness of orange blossom. Jasmine adds a classic floral depth, while the base of styrax, musk, and vanilla provides a resinous, warm foundation. By the time it fully dries down, the initial medicinal chill has evolved into a substantial, animalic floral that feels sophisticated and slightly dark.

Details

House: Serge Lutens
Gender: unisex
Year: 1998
Longevity: 8.4 / 10 · 200 Parfumo ratings
Sillage: 7.7 / 10 · 186 Parfumo ratings
Season votes on Parfumo: Fall (89 votes), Winter (86 votes)
Occasion votes on Parfumo: Evening (92 votes), Night Out (81 votes)
Scent Profile: Spicy, Floral, Resinous, Oriental, Animal
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake, Serge Lutens

Historical community ratings and votes imported from Parfumo. Values may have changed since import; the observation date is unavailable. Ratings reflect community opinions, not measured wear tests. Categories show up to two leading vote counts; votes are category selections and may overlap.

Community Insights

RedditFragrantica

The fragrance is widely regarded as a polarizing masterpiece, famous for a difficult opening that enthusiasts compare to "mothballs on ice" or "VapoRub" before it transitions into a beautiful floral.
Performance is consistently rated as high, with notable longevity and a sillage that is substantial and hearty without being overwhelming.
It is frequently compared to Robert Piguet’s Fracas; however, where Fracas is seen as sunny and classically feminine, Tubéreuse Criminelle is viewed as its dangerous, "vampish" counterpart.
Recommended primarily for cooler weather, particularly fall and winter evenings, as the cold air highlights the contrast between the icy spices and the warm floral core.
Enthusiasts often describe this as a "must-smell" for those exploring niche perfumery, though it is rarely recommended as a blind purchase due to its challenging nature.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the medicinal opening last for the duration of the wear?+

No. The sharp, mentholated phase generally lasts between 30 to 90 minutes. After this period, the fragrance settles into a much smoother, creamier floral dominated by tuberose and jasmine.

Is this fragrance suitable for office wear?+

Generally, no. Given its aggressive opening and dramatic, animalic character, it is best suited for evening wear, nights out, or leisure time rather than a professional business environment.

How does this compare to other tuberose-heavy scents?+

Unlike "sunny" or "tropical" tuberose scents, this version is darker and more resinous. The inclusion of clove, nutmeg, and styrax gives it a spicy, oriental edge that makes it feel more mysterious and "noir" than a standard floral.

Is Tubéreuse Criminelle considered a masculine or feminine scent?+

While traditionally categorized for men and women, the community often views it as leaning feminine but with a "villainous" or "stoic" edge that makes it easily wearable for anyone who enjoys bold, spicy florals.

Has the fragrance been reformulated or discontinued?+

While Serge Lutens fragrances often move between different bottle styles (such as the "export" line and the "bell jars"), Tubéreuse Criminelle remains a pillar of the brand's history, though its availability may fluctuate depending on current distribution.

Does the vanilla make it a sweet, gourmand fragrance?+

Not at all. The vanilla and musk in the base are used to provide body and a resinous warmth rather than a sugary sweetness, ensuring the scent remains focused on the floral and spicy accords.

Accords

Notes

HeartTuberose//Clove//Jasmine//Styrax//Orange blossom//Hyacinth//Vanilla//Musk//Nutmeg

Appears in Collections

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Fragrance Fragrance is an independent price-comparison service, not a retailer or marketplace. We do not sell, stock, ship, or accept payment for products. Purchases are completed on third-party retailer sites. We are not affiliated with or endorsed by fragrance brands. How buying works.

Prices are collected from third-party retailers and updated periodically. Always verify the price on the retailer's site before purchasing. We may earn a commission on purchases made through our links.