Fragrance Fragrance is an independent price-comparison service, not a retailer or marketplace. We do not sell, stock, ship, or accept payment for products. Purchases are completed on third-party retailer sites. We are not affiliated with or endorsed by fragrance brands. How buying works.

Prices are collected from third-party retailers and updated periodically. Always verify the price on the retailer's site before purchasing. We may earn a commission on purchases made through our links.

What does Vitriol d'Œillet smell like?

Vitriol d'Œillet is a scent of calculated friction. True to its name, which translates to "carnation of vitriol," it presents a sharp, biting introduction that feels like a gust of cold air passing over a spice rack. This isn't a sunny, garden-party floral; instead, it is a deconstructed carnation that highlights the flower’s naturally spicy, peppery temperament. The opening is dominated by a stinging Cayenne pepper and an intense clove note that may initially remind some of medicinal ointments or high-end dental aromatics, but this sharpness is intentional, creating a "snapping" sensation. As the fragrance settles, the "anger" of the spices softens into a more velvety, powdery texture. The gillyflower and carnation emerge with a dusty, floral sweetness that feels vintage and intellectual rather than youthful. The transition from the stinging heat of the pepper to the creamy, woody drydown provides a sense of melancholic distance. It feels like wearing a well-tailored grey coat on a damp November day—stoic, refined, and slightly standoffish, yet deeply comforting for those who enjoy scents with a bit of a "bite."

Details

House: Serge Lutens
Gender: unisex
Year: 2011
Longevity: 7.5 / 10 · 180 Parfumo ratings
Sillage: 6.8 / 10 · 162 Parfumo ratings
Season votes on Parfumo: Fall (102 votes), Spring (79 votes)
Occasion votes on Parfumo: Leisure (84 votes), Evening (74 votes)
Scent Profile: Spicy, Floral, Woody, Sweet, Powdery
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake, Serge Lutens

Historical community ratings and votes imported from Parfumo. Values may have changed since import; the observation date is unavailable. Ratings reflect community opinions, not measured wear tests. Categories show up to two leading vote counts; votes are category selections and may overlap.

Community Insights

RedditFragrantica

The fragrance is widely regarded as a "shape-shifter" that may require multiple wearings to appreciate; several enthusiasts report an initial dislike for its sharp, medicinal opening before finding its spicy-floral heart addictive.
Performance is consistently described as moderate; while it provides a persistent trail for several hours, it eventually settles into a tame, skin-hugging floral rather than remaining a loud "spice bomb."
Enthusiasts often debate its realism, with some praising it as a photorealistic study of green stems and spicy petals, while others find it more of a conceptual "spicy wood" scent that lacks the lushness of traditional carnation perfumes like Caron Bellodgia.
It is most frequently recommended for Fall and Spring, as the cooler air complements the dry, peppery heat of the clove and Cayenne notes without becoming cloying.
While marketed as unisex, its character is often described as "intellectual" and "poetic," appealing to those who prefer fragrances that feel somewhat cold, mysterious, or even "witchy."

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this a safe blind buy for someone who loves floral scents?+

No. Because of the heavy emphasis on Cayenne pepper and clove, this is more of a "spicy-savory" floral than a sweet one. Its sharp, medicinal qualities make it a fragrance that should be sampled first.

Does the clove note domesticate over time?+

Yes. While the clove is very aggressive in the first thirty minutes—often compared to medicinal salves—it eventually recedes to become a supporting player for the powdery gillyflower and soft woody accords.

How does this compare to other Serge Lutens fragrances?+

It is leaner and more "transparent" than the thick, syrupy orientals the house is famous for. While it shares the signature Sheldrake spice palette, it feels more airy and atmospheric than something like Ambre Sultan.

Can this be worn in a professional business setting?+

Surprisingly, yes. After the initial peppery blast, the sillage becomes quite polite and sophisticated. Its dry, powdery finish projects an image of stoicism and focus rather than sensuality.

Appears in Collections

Unisex Fragrances3693 2010s Fragrances3361 Fragrances Starting With V309

Similar Fragrances

Diptyque

Volutes

Eau De Toilette

Serge Lutens

Gris clair...

Eau De Parfum

Diptyque

Vetyverio

Eau De Toilette

Diptyque

Volutes

Eau De Parfum

Diptyque

Vetyverio

Eau De Parfum

s.Oliver

Selection Women

Eau De Toilette

Violet

Un Air d'Apogée

Lorenzo Villoresi

Patchouli

Eau De Toilette

No tracked prices yet

We are not tracking a current retailer offer for this fragrance yet.

View price details

No tracked prices yet

We are not tracking a current retailer offer for this fragrance yet.

View price details

What does Vitriol d'Œillet smell like?

Vitriol d'Œillet is a scent of calculated friction. True to its name, which translates to "carnation of vitriol," it presents a sharp, biting introduction that feels like a gust of cold air passing over a spice rack. This isn't a sunny, garden-party floral; instead, it is a deconstructed carnation that highlights the flower’s naturally spicy, peppery temperament. The opening is dominated by a stinging Cayenne pepper and an intense clove note that may initially remind some of medicinal ointments or high-end dental aromatics, but this sharpness is intentional, creating a "snapping" sensation. As the fragrance settles, the "anger" of the spices softens into a more velvety, powdery texture. The gillyflower and carnation emerge with a dusty, floral sweetness that feels vintage and intellectual rather than youthful. The transition from the stinging heat of the pepper to the creamy, woody drydown provides a sense of melancholic distance. It feels like wearing a well-tailored grey coat on a damp November day—stoic, refined, and slightly standoffish, yet deeply comforting for those who enjoy scents with a bit of a "bite."

Details

House: Serge Lutens
Gender: unisex
Year: 2011
Longevity: 7.5 / 10 · 180 Parfumo ratings
Sillage: 6.8 / 10 · 162 Parfumo ratings
Season votes on Parfumo: Fall (102 votes), Spring (79 votes)
Occasion votes on Parfumo: Leisure (84 votes), Evening (74 votes)
Scent Profile: Spicy, Floral, Woody, Sweet, Powdery
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake, Serge Lutens

Historical community ratings and votes imported from Parfumo. Values may have changed since import; the observation date is unavailable. Ratings reflect community opinions, not measured wear tests. Categories show up to two leading vote counts; votes are category selections and may overlap.

Community Insights

RedditFragrantica

The fragrance is widely regarded as a "shape-shifter" that may require multiple wearings to appreciate; several enthusiasts report an initial dislike for its sharp, medicinal opening before finding its spicy-floral heart addictive.
Performance is consistently described as moderate; while it provides a persistent trail for several hours, it eventually settles into a tame, skin-hugging floral rather than remaining a loud "spice bomb."
Enthusiasts often debate its realism, with some praising it as a photorealistic study of green stems and spicy petals, while others find it more of a conceptual "spicy wood" scent that lacks the lushness of traditional carnation perfumes like Caron Bellodgia.
It is most frequently recommended for Fall and Spring, as the cooler air complements the dry, peppery heat of the clove and Cayenne notes without becoming cloying.
While marketed as unisex, its character is often described as "intellectual" and "poetic," appealing to those who prefer fragrances that feel somewhat cold, mysterious, or even "witchy."

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this a safe blind buy for someone who loves floral scents?+

No. Because of the heavy emphasis on Cayenne pepper and clove, this is more of a "spicy-savory" floral than a sweet one. Its sharp, medicinal qualities make it a fragrance that should be sampled first.

Does the clove note domesticate over time?+

Yes. While the clove is very aggressive in the first thirty minutes—often compared to medicinal salves—it eventually recedes to become a supporting player for the powdery gillyflower and soft woody accords.

How does this compare to other Serge Lutens fragrances?+

It is leaner and more "transparent" than the thick, syrupy orientals the house is famous for. While it shares the signature Sheldrake spice palette, it feels more airy and atmospheric than something like Ambre Sultan.

Can this be worn in a professional business setting?+

Surprisingly, yes. After the initial peppery blast, the sillage becomes quite polite and sophisticated. Its dry, powdery finish projects an image of stoicism and focus rather than sensuality.

Is Vitriol d'Œillet still in production?+

Availability varies by region as Serge Lutens frequently reorganizes their collection between the "Export" and "Gratte-ciel" (Bell Jar) lines. It is currently more difficult to find in standard retail shops than it was at launch.

Does it lean more masculine or feminine?+

It sits right in the middle. The peppery, woody elements appeal to traditional masculine tastes, while the powdery, floral drydown carries a vintage feminine elegance.

Accords

Notes

HeartCarnation//Clove//Cayenne pepper//Gillyflower

Similar Fragrances

Diptyque

Volutes

Eau De Toilette

Serge Lutens

Gris clair...

Eau De Parfum

Diptyque

Vetyverio

Eau De Toilette

Diptyque

Volutes

Eau De Parfum

Diptyque

Vetyverio

Eau De Parfum

s.Oliver

Selection Women

Eau De Toilette

Violet

Un Air d'Apogée

Lorenzo Villoresi

Patchouli

Eau De Toilette

Appears in Collections

Unisex Fragrances3693 2010s Fragrances3361 Fragrances Starting With V309

Where to buy Vitriol d'Œillet

No tracked prices yet.

We don't track a retailer offer for this fragrance yet — check the Amazon link below for current availability.

Amazon

Price not trackedBuy

No price tracked yet. Join the list and we'll email you if one shows up.

Fragrance Fragrance is an independent price-comparison service, not a retailer or marketplace. We do not sell, stock, ship, or accept payment for products. Purchases are completed on third-party retailer sites. We are not affiliated with or endorsed by fragrance brands. How buying works.

Prices are collected from third-party retailers and updated periodically. Always verify the price on the retailer's site before purchasing. We may earn a commission on purchases made through our links.