How does this compare to the original Eau des Merveilles?+−
They share DNA — the ambergris-influenced saltiness is a thread running through both — but L'Ambre des Merveilles moves in a noticeably different direction. The original is airier and more mineral-salty; this version is warmer, softer, and more overtly resinous, leading with amber, patchouli, and vanilla rather than the original's brisk, woody-salty character. If you love the Eau des Merveilles but want something more enveloping and cold-weather-ready, this is essentially that version.
Is it actually wearable by men, or is it marketed female but really feminine?+−
It wears unisex in practice. The amber-patchouli-balsam combination has no floral sweetness or explicitly feminine elements, and the overall character — warm, resinous, slightly spicy — is the kind of profile that reads as comfortably gender-neutral to most people who encounter it. Hermès markets it for women, but enthusiasts regularly recommend it to anyone seeking a well-made amber regardless of gender.
How is the longevity and sillage — is it worth the price given the performance?+−
This is the honest caveat with this fragrance. Longevity and projection are its weakest points — it wears close to the skin and tends to fade sooner than you'd hope from a parfum concentration at Hermès prices. Community opinion is fairly consistent on this: the quality of the scent itself is not in question, but if you're someone who needs a fragrance to last eight-plus hours and announce itself across a room, this will likely disappoint. If you're comfortable with a skin-level scent you'll catch on yourself throughout the day, the quality more than justifies the price.